Emilia Romaga
Emilia-Romagna is the green heart of Italy. It is known to contain some of the best food in Italy including some staples that you have heard about like Prosciutto di Parma, Parmigiano Reggiano and Balsamic Vinegar (the real one). Travelling through this region is a Foodie’s Dream and it warrants some time in its key cities.
Ferrara
Ferrara is a beautiful city that just loves bicycles. I know that is a silly thing to start out with but I got quite a chuckle one day when there were bicycles backed up at a red light. Of course it has much more than that to discuss but the lack of cars is one of the beautiful things about the city. There are a multitude of Palazzi to visit in this city. Sadly there was some significant damage during an Earthquake in 2012. I would check out what the current status is before visiting. I am sure it is safe now but there may still be some closures in the city.
You can easily get here by train from Florence and once here You can visit other parts of Emilia-Romagna y train or car. There are plenty of sights and delicious food to work your way through.
Sights
Castello Estense
Incredible building that was the seat of the Este Dynasty. This is the kind of place that comes to mind when you think about a medieval Castle. The place even has a moat and drawbridge to complete the whole look. You can visit the dungeons and wonder what it was like to be a prisoner way back when. The Castle dates to the 14th century. This building is open to the public.
Ferrara Duomo
The Cattedrale di San Giorgio has a three tiered facade. The building was started in the 12th century and is truly stunning, especially the impressive facade. I checked the website and it still appears to be closed for restoration. I have included the link to the Cathedrale Website to check on the status when you visit Ferrara. .
Restaurants
Cucina Bacilieri
This is a rather sophisticated place with many fish choices. They also serve homemade pastas. They also have some meat choices but the focus is fish.
Trattoria Antica Maremma
Kind of the reverse of Cucina Bacilieri, this place serves a good amount of meat including Bistecca Fiorentina in case you are not making it to Florence to try one of these great steaks. Service is excellent and they have a wide selection of wines.
Trattoria La Romantica
This is a friendly restaurant with homemade pasta. I watched them making the pasta outside and laying it out for the lunch and dinner service. It was irresistible. The dining room is inviting with very high ceilings. Some of the dishes enjoyed are Culatello which is kind of like the best cut of the prosciutto, Garganelli with asparagus and porcinis, Cappellacci (a type of ravioli) filled with squash and served with a walnut sauce, roasted pork and lamb chops. I highly recommend this place especially if you like homemade pasta.
Ravenna
Just a little over an hour from Ferrara by car, but just as fast by train (which I recommend). This is a must see as far as I am concerned if you are a fan of Mosaics. The city is loaded with beautiful palaces and smaller, more humble houses. It also houses no less than 8 Unesco World Heritage sites.
Sights
Basilica di San Vitale
We were absolutely blown away by the mosaics in this Basilica. The website says they are the best in the world. While I cannot attest to that, I can tell you they are the best I have ever seen. The place is loaded with them and they adorned the walls, arches and ceiling. The amazing thing is that the building itself dates from 547 and no I did not forget a 1. It is an experience that I will never forget but I'm a big fan of mosaics.
Basilica di Sant’Apollinare Nuovo
Another ancient building dating from 526, this is also worth a visit for its mosaics and interior. It has a rather plain exterior but you will be glad you made the trip for the mosaics that adorn the walls.
Tomba di Dante
The resting place of the famous Poet and Author. Dante Aligheri was best known for his masterwork La divina commedia (The Divine Comedy). Dante passed away in Ravenna in 1321 and the Florentines have been ticked off ever since!
Bologna
This city is the Holy Grail of Italian Cuisine. Even Italians from other provinces recognize the splendor of the food. If you are a foodie then you need to make it here. You can get here in less than an hour from Florence via fast train, but I prefer a 2 day stay to enjoy the sites and the many fine restaurants in the city. The City is also known as Bologna the Fat (Grasso) and Bologna the Learned. The two names are for the city’s reputation for food and the fact that it has the world’s oldest University.
You can also take a train from Ferrara or vice versa that only takes 30 minutes.
Things to See
Basilica di San Petronio
This basilica is still not finished more than 600 years after construction was started. The facade is also not finished. It is still a massive structure and worth visiting. Its location on Piazza Maggiore is a lovely setting.
Piazza Maggiore andd Piazza Nettuno
This is a pair of stunning Piazze in the middle of the city. It is worth taking a break and enjoying the surroundings over an espresso or drink especially at night when the daytrippers have gone and they are illuminated. Many of the city's important landmarks are located around these squares including the Basilica San Petronio and the Baroque Fontana di Nettuno.
Due Torri
Two medieval towers located in the center and easily seen from almost anywhere in the city. This is Bologna’s version of the Leaning Tower of Pisa but they have two! Both of these towers lean. Torre Garisenda is now closed to the public and leans 10 feet off perpendicular. Torre degli Asinelli leans 7.5 feet.
Basilica di Santo Stefano
This is actually an impressive collection of religious buildings that dates all the way back from 400. It is a pleasant stop in an a walk around the city and offers up 7 different buildings.
Hotels
Grand Hotel Majestic "Gia Baglioni"
This is a fantastic 5 star located in the center of the city in an early 18th Century Palazzo. It is near the sights in Bologna due its location. The style is that of a Grand Old Hotel. This is a throwback to another era but the hotel is renovated and in excellent condition. The staff are aso friendly and helpful.
Restaurants
Ristorante Enoteca da Bitone
This is a beautiful and excellent restaurant that will require a cab ride. This is a great location for a special occasion. You can opt for a la Carte Menu or Tasting Menu. In either case you will enjoy classic Bolognese cuisine that is expertly prepared. They also have a fine wine list. We really enjoyed the house specialty Tortellini “Goccia d’Oro”, nostra antica specialità which is Tortellini Golden Drop on the English Menu. When we were there Chef Cesare was quite the character. He really seemed to enjoy dropping by each table and talking. They also have a stellar Wine LIst.
Ristorante da Nello
Excellent food in a charming setting located in the center of the city. The Service is Excellent - let the waiter recommend something for you. Since it was my first meal when I got here, I had to order the Tagliatelle Bolognese for my pasta course. You really have not had true Bolognese until you have had it in Bologna. It is totally different from the red sauce with ground beef that you are used to eating.
Rosteria Luciano
A good traditional restaurant located in the historical center. We enjoyed Tagliolini con Fiore di Zucca (Pasta with Zucchini Flowers), the classic Tortellini in Brodo and Veal. The pasta in particular were very tasty and obviously homemade.
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