It took me several years of travel in Italy before I ventured here. I was scared away by reports that painted Naples as a dirty and crime ridden city. When I did finally make it here, I fell in love.
Come here for the birthplace of Pizza, the beautiful Bay of Naples, the warm and welcoming people and the street theater. It is a fun place to be. Do not get crazy concerned about theft. Instead, be prepared. I always use a money belt to store my money, valuables and documentation (these days Covid Vaccination Card or Green Pass) no matter where I go, and keep 40-60 Euros in my front pocket. Then you do not have to worry about being pickpocketed. Ladies should keep their pocketbooks across their bodies. Better yet do not carry it at all and use a money belt as well. You can just as easily get pickpocketed in other Italian cities or in the States. Do these things and you can walk around freely while enjoying a fun and exciting city. In checking our diary from our first visit to Naples we noted that we did not feel threatened while walking around this crazy city and thoroughly enjoyed our time. Somehow Naples is what I expected Italy to be like and we have returned numerous times.
I grew up in an Italian family. My father was born in Abruzzo and my Mother’s family came from around Naples. When we got together with my Mother’s side of the family there was always lots of carrying on about whatever the topic of the day was. There also were plenty of jokes and laughs. They were the crazy side of the family and so Naples feels right at home to me.
The first time we arrived in Naples on a Hydrofoil from Panarea we were treated to some street theatre. There was a major soccer match and everywhere you went in the city there were people outside at bars and on the sidewalk watching the action on TV. This defines Naples in that the locals like to be outside with their fellow Napolitani sharing a moment. There was plenty of gesturing and screaming and moaning. Basically all ends of the emotional spectrum laid out before you to see.
Getting here is easy via train from Rome or Florence. If you are staying in Capri, then a Hydrofoil will whisk you away in an hour or less. Do not, I repeat, do not try to take your car into the city unless you are a really experienced driver in Italian cities. You will probably lose a couple of years trying to get to your hotel.
Things to see
Spaccanapoli
In the historic center, Spaccanapoli offers a fun walk. This is the place to see the street theatre that is Naples. Enjoy the fruit and vegetable, and fish vendors shouting out their goods, people hanging out in the streets gesturing and making their point to whoever will listen, and the warm welcome that the people will give you here. There are also many sites to see in this area. This is a do not miss for your visit to Naples.
Veiled Christ
This is another must see in the Cappella Sansevero. It is a full body sculpture of Christ with a thin shroud draped over the body. This work by Giuseppe Sanmartino is a marvel. I am always amazed at how he created this masterwork. One of my favorite sites in Naples.
Museo Archeologico Nazionale
A great museum for ancient art. This contains a world renowned collection of pieces including sculptures, frescoes, mosaics and an Egyptian collection. There are mosaics from Pompei as well as a section of pretty explicit erotic art. The erotic section is contained in a separate room away from the eyes of children. You need special tickets for this room. My wife thinks it is kind of like somebody who used to go into the Adult Section of the Video Store.
Duomo
Of course Naples has a Duomo. This impressive church was built between 1294 and 1323. The facade is much newer, dating to the 19th century. Inside you are treated to ancient columns, monuments and works of art.
Certosa di San Martino Museum and Cloisters
This is worth a trip and up the hill and you get the added plus of riding in a Funicular! There are beautiful views from the Castello. There is a nice cloister area to explore and mosaic floors as well as 200-300 year old Nativity Scenes. On the way back be sure that you take the correct funicular because there are a couple that make it up here.
Galleria Umberto I
This beautiful arcade was built in 1887 . It is across from the teatro San Carlo. Come here to do some shopping or just enjoy the splendor of the place. You can visit rain or shine because of the vaulted glass ceiling that protects you from the elements.
Santa Chiara
This is a complex with multiple sights. The peaceful and beautiful Cloister is decorated in beautiful Majolica Tiles. The church was reconstructed after bombings in World War II to its original form. Check the website for opening times.
Palazzo Reale
This translates to Royal Palace and was constructed while Naples was under Spanish Occupation. It was the seat of the Monarchy until 1946. Impressive building the Palazzo complex has multiple sights that include a Chapel, Royal Apartments, Gardens and Teatro Reale.
Piazza del Plebiscito
A beautiful Piazza that is centrally located. This is the largest Piazza in Naples. It is stunning to see in person and to me is kind of like Piazza Navonna in Rome in that it should not be missed.
Teatro San Carlo
If you love Opera like us then you HAVE to get tickets for this place. Dating to 1737 this is a fantastic Opera House near the Galleria Umberto II. It is beautiful and will be a special memory you will not forget. We were lucky enough to see an Opera here and thoroughly enjoyed it!
Hotels
I like to stay on Via Partenope which has a view of Vesuvius and the Bay of Naples and also has a wonderful promenade along the sea.
Hotel Excelsior
Pricey but excellent choice on Via Partenope. Try to swing a sea view room so you can enjoy the view of the Bay of Naples, Castel d’Ova and Vesuvius. Spacious, remodeled and clean rooms with nice bathrooms.
Royal Continental
A much more reasonable iterative that is also on Via Partenope with a view of the Bay of Naples and Castel dell’Ovo . Even their Sea View rooms with a Balcony are under 250 Euro. You get a lot for a very reasonable price.
Grand Hotel Vesuvio
This 5 star is the grand dame of the hotels in this area and they are not afraid to charge you for the pleasure of staying here. There are great rooms with large balconies to enjoy the view of the bay if you want to shell out the cash. Lovely hotel.
Eats
Pizza
You seriously cannot go to Naples without sampling pizza in the place where it was invented. There are plenty of excellent pizzerias to try here. I had a friend come here once and did not have Pizza - I still have not forgiven them. I have included a couple that I like. The Margherita is the classic choice with Tomato sauce, Mozzarella and Basil leaves.
Pizzeria Brandi
This is supposed to be the birthplace of Pizza Margherita, the pizza we all know and love. As the story goes, Queen Margherita, the wife of King Vittorio Emmanuel, was visiting the city in 1889 and the Pizzaoilo of Brandi wanted to create a pizza with the colors of the flag of the newly unified Italy. The tomatoes (red), Mozzarella (White) and Basil (green) cover the bases. They have hosted numerous dignitaries. If you are in the area then it is worth a try. I do think that other Pizzerias in Naples do a better job but if you want some history then stop by.
L’Antica Pizzeria Da Michele
This place was already famous when I came here the first time in 2005 and that was before Eat, Pray, Love with Julia Roberts was partially filmed here. My point is that it was famous for the quality of its PIzza. Despite the fact that it is now a tourist destination, the high quality remains. I LOVE the place. They only serve Margherita and Marinara here and they are divine. You have to take a number so be sure to go in to get your number and wait outside. There was a wait even back in 2005. The first time we went we were ordering one small pie each and there were some very nice Napolitano business men there who heavily recommended getting the next size up for lunch. I am glad they did! The pizza is very light and not filling.
Trianon Pizzeria
If you want to branch out to more toppings then try this place. I have never eaten here but a very close friend’s Neopolitan cousin took him to Trianon and who would know better?. Both the cousin and my friends swear by it. It will be on my list the next time I am in Naples.
Ristorante Pizzeria Marino
We had a mixed fried vegetable appetizer at this place and they were excellent. Very Good PIzza and a nice break for lunch.
Restaurants
Antica Trattoria da Ettore
This place serves typical Naplolitano dishes. We ahve enjoyed fried zucchini blossoms, Pizza Margharita and Steak Pizzaiola, all expertly prepared. The place gets crazy busy so try to make a reservation. I highly recommend this place for an atmospheric and delicious dinner.
Borgo Marinari
This is not a restaurant recommendation, but rather a place to go on the water. This is a restored port area with Bars and Restaurants to enjoy in the shadow of Castel del’Ovo looking out over the Bay of Naples. Try Cafe del Mar. Say hi to Fausto, the owner, who provides a warm welcome and is entertaining.
La Cantinella
This is located pretty close to the three hotels listed here that are on Via Partenope. This was recommended by a favorite barman at the Excelsior. It is a little formal but not overly so. Some of the good dishes we have sampled here are Carpaccio of Swordfish and Salmon, Homemade Fusilli with Porcini Mushrooms and Ravioli stuffed with fish. However, the menu changes so try something that looks good to you.
Trattoria San Fernando
A block away from the Opera and a good choice for a post Opera dinner. Don't expect fancy. This is a classic family Trattoria. They make a very nice Seafood Salad here which is one of my favorite dishes. If you are tired of fish then you can try the very good Polpetti in sauce (small meatballs).
La Cantina dei Lazzari
Near Castel d’Ovo, this place had a varied menu with vegetable, meat and seafood choices. Raw fish is also offered here. Dishes are expertly prepared with beautiful presentations. The staff is welcoming and kind.
留言