Venice
This place is overcrowded, expensive, and the food can be iffy. However, I would tell you not to miss it. There is no place like Venice in the world. Catch the frenetic St. Mark’s Square in the morning or at night when the day trippers are gone, and it is magical. Another tip is to TRY to get there during the week and not weekends. Italians also make it here on the weekends as well and it is even more crowded at that time. In the past, I have modified itineraries to get to Venice during the week and in my mind it is worth it. You will inevitably get lost but, quite frankly, that is part of the experience.
Things to See
Piazza San Marco
Do not miss this square. It is painfully crowded in the middle of the day. Having a drink in Piazza San Marco and admiring its great expanse and architectural beauty is a wonderful, if expensive, thing. Like the rest of Italy they will not present you with a check, you have to ask for it, so you can enjoy your drink and stay for a while. Try to hit it early morning or at night when the day trippers are not there. Make sure to grab a drink at Café Florian, enjoy the music and just admire the piazza.
Basilica San Marco
Right on Piazza San Marco. Unbelievable Byzantine style structure - very unique. The place was started in the 11th century. Read about it before you go. It is worth the time. This place gets CROWDED. Get there when they open at 9:45 and make sure you get tickets in advance to skip the line.
Palazzo Ducale
Next to Basilica San Marco. The seat of the Venetian Government in its heyday. The Doge was the ruler of Venice in those days and had enormous power.
Another place to get tickets in advance.
Ponte Rialto
Beautiful stone bridge from the late 16th century. Great views of the grand canal. Not to be missed and a great landmark. This was designed by Antonio da Ponte with construction starting in 1588. This Is a great place to get a view of the Grand Canal. Unfortunately, everyone else thinks the same thing I do. If you want to take photos of it then try to get there at sunrise or late evening when the crowds are gone and it and the city is bathed in golden light.
Gallerie dell’Accademia
Great gallery for Venetian paintings. They had some talent up here too!
Peggy Guggenheim Collection - Modern Art
If you like Modern Art then it is worth a visit . If not take a pass.
Santa Maria della Salute
Take a vaporetto ride here and take a walk around the island. The curch was built in honor of the Virgin Mary for saving the city from the plague.
Scuola Grande di San Rocco
A great find that houses some incredible paintings by Tintoretto. The paintings are gorgeous and it is not on the radar of every tourist.
Ca d’Oro
Created between 1428 - 1430 it is one of the symbols of Venice but most tourists just admire it from the outside.
Santi Giovanni e Paolo
Beautiful church on a beautiful piazza away from the usual tourist haunts and more tranquil.
Things to do:
Take a gondola ride - sure it’s touristy but how many times will you be here?
Take a trip up and down the grand canal on one of the vaporettos. This is a cheap way to see the sights from the water. Try to grab one of the seats up front.
Take a trip to Murano or Burano. Murano for its handblown glass and Burano for its fantastically colored buildings.
Tours
Giovanna Gradella
I highly recommend Giovanna Gradella as a personal guide. You can book for any number up to 20 people. Giovanna has a wealth of knowledge about Venice and imparts it in a way that makes it interesting. We have been in Venice five times and yet when we used Giovanna as our guide we learned many facts that we were not aware of. Giovanna also knows how to skip the line and takes you to places that you would not have thought to see on your own. Definitely worthwhile.
giovanna.gradella@gmail.com
Places to Eat
Note: Food can be iffy in Venice. Stay away from the tourist spots like San Marco and dig a little deeper to find mom and pop places where you hear some Italian being spoken. Avoid those places with the little chef outside holding a placard with the menu translation into multiple languages with a Menu Turistico. Also try the chichetti joints. These are little places that serve small plates, like tapas. They are cheap and you can try a bunch of different dishes. More likely to get good food.
L’Antico Martini
Right next to Teatro La Fenice if you are taking in an Opera. A little expensive but worth it. This is a beautiful place with excellent food. They have some of the Venetian staples including spider crab and fish but also offers some meat dishes if you are tired of all the fish in Venice. Good choice for Tira Misu, a Venetian dessert.
Ristorante alle Corone
a 3 minute walk from the Rilto Bridge and 6 minutes from Piazza San Marco. Nice Cichetti plates of market fish. Very good pasta dishes with some meat sauce options. The interior is beautiful with vaulted ceilings. Higher end than some of the other recommendations. They also offer a tasting menu. Tasty food and beautiful presentation.
Osteria Alle Testiere
A location removed from the maddening crowds in the Castello section of Venice. A small and welcoming location. Luca, the owner, provides a very nice welcome. Unabashedly defines itself as a seafood restaurant. There is a large selection of Starters here – try the Razor clams if you have never had them. When I first had some at this place it was a revelation. One of the best in Venice.
Ristorante Poste Vecie
Location in the Rialto Fish Market. Very atmospheric and romantic place with a cute little bridge that drops you off at the entrance. One excellent option here is a mix of fried fish with some small ones that you eat whole. Mostly seafood but their Gnocchi with Duck Ragu is worth a try.
Vecie Cavana
Near Santi Apostoli. BEautiful atmosphere. Try the excellent Swordfish Carpaccio Appetizer, Mixed Fried Seafood and the BacalaMontecato, whipped salt cod over polenta.
Cantine de Vino gia Schiave
Near the Gallerie Accademia so it is a good choice for lunch if you are visiting the museum. There are no seats. This is mainly a wine shop and Cichetti bar with excellent wine choices for lunch. Chichetti are tapas like small portions, and this is an excellent place to try them. Mostly frequented by locals.
Algiubagio
Far removed from Piazza San Marco on Fonamenta Nove. Try to snag one of the tables on the water for a memorable experience. Nice mix of seafood along with some meat dishes. Very welcoming staff in a beautiful location. Definitely worth the walk.
Alle Zattere
Restaurant and Pizzeria. Good place if you are in the mood for Pizza. This is about a three minute walk form the Peggy Guggenheim Museum and right on the water overlooking the island of Guidecca.
Agli Alboretti
In the Dorsoduro district. Seafood restaurant that also makes fresh pasta. There is a small outdoor seating area if you can get a seat. There are the usual fish dishes but they do offer some meat, risotto and home made pasta dishes. http://www.aglialboretti.it
Taverna la Fenice
Extremely close the Teatro La Fenice. This place has a large menu of high quality food with plenty of meat, vegetables, pasta, and risotto courses. A great place to go if you are tired of eating every fish in the lagoon. Nice terrace with some armchairs for enjoying drinks outside.
Hotels
Hotel Al Ponte Antico
Four star hotel with fantastic location with a great view of the Rialto Bridge. Pricey but you know what they say – location, location, location. There are rooms and Junior Suites directly on the Grand Canal and it is a blast to stay here and watch the hustle bustle on the canal. The owner, Matteo, is very welcoming to his guests. It is very special if you can catch the Regatta Storica.
Foscari Palace
I love a view of the grand canal and this charming four star hotel offers that in spades. There are rooms and suites with views of the Grand Canal and some have balconies for you to spend some time watching the goings on. Located directly across from the Rialto fish market. There is a public Traghetto (kind of gondola) that transports people back and forth. Downright cheap for a 4 star in Venice. This is one of my personal favorites. It is one of those places I hate recommending because I want to keep it to myself but there, I just did. Also a good place to watch the Regatta Storica.
Sina Centurion Palace
A fine five star hotel located directly across from the Gritti Palace on the Grand Canal. This hotel is in the quieter sestiere known as Dorsodoro. It is close to both the Peggy Gugenheim Collection and Accademia Gallery. The rooms are modern but the hotel is in an ancient palazzo. Get a room with a view on the Grand Canal if you want to splurge; there is nothing like waking up to the sound and sights of the Grand Canal. The staff are friendly and helpful and the rooms and common areas are immaculately clean and they serve an excellent breakfast. The prices are very expensive but not at the astronomical levels of the 5 star palaces located across the canal.
Pensione Accademia
Lovely old fashioned three star Albergo where Summertime with Katherine Hepburn was partially filmed. It has a dock right on a canal if you choose to take a water Taxi to the hotel. The pricing is very reasonable. I would try for a Superior Double with a Canal View which his very atmospheric. People book this hotel well in advance. Get your reservation request in early.
Hotel Giorgione
A splendid 4 star choice about 6 minutes away from the Rialto Bridge. This is a lovely 14th Century building with a courtyard and pool to relax at. The building exudes history. The rooms are very comfy and well maintained. Great location.
Danieli
This is the only hotel on the list that I have not stayed at but felt I needed to include it. If you can afford a King’s ransom, then rock on with your bad self. Absolutely oozing luxury and history. This high priced option is a fantastic choice. I can report that I have been in the hotel for drinks, and it is lovely. The rates start at about 600 Euro and about 850 for a room with a view of the Lagoon. They go all the way to 9,000! If this isn’t in your budget, you can take a drink inside like I did to soak up the atmosphere.
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